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Monday, 01 March 2021

Catching Some Z's: Zambia & Zimbabwe - Page 2

Written by Richard Taylor
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As for historic trains engines, they’re parked on unused track and can be photographed zap-free.


The town is a little more compact than Livingstone and to my eye, more attractive, although it swarms with touts and hustlers, selling art and commemorative trillion dollar bills from the high inflation years. The touts are a persistent lot, and named for the virtues:

Come to my shop Sir! My name is Excellence!

Remember me Sir! My name is Honesty!

See me later Sir! My name is Knowledge!

The next morning, after Id purchased a ticket for Zambia’s major attraction, the hotel driver drove me through the surrounding kiosks and introduced me to Thomas, who ran his own little tent. We shook hands.

When you are ready, Thomas will call the hotel and we will come for you.

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They were renting ponchos near the statue of David Livingstone but I welcomed a cool jungle mist and declined them…failing to consider my poor cameras. For the next hour, I was wiping lenses with a sodden shirt, wiping them incessantly. And for good reason.

Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.”

Doctor Livingstone’s particular reverie. He was right. Almost seventeen hundred meters wide and a hundred high, braced by two nations, separating the Upper and Lower Zambezi rivers, Victoria Falls is one of the great sights of nature, those angelic private screenings now shared by thousands of tourists in ponchosand the silly few who spurn them.

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And that double rainbow is killer. Virtually a permanent feature, it blooms as triplets when the sun and seasons are right and even pops in for an occasional night show, thrilling the Full Moon tours come to scope the ‘lunar rainbow.’

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Locally, the falls have borne many names. The Toka leya people called it Shongwe; in Ndebele tongue it was aManza Thunqayo. But locally, the one that stuck, came from the Makololo.

Mosi Oa Tunya they called it. ‘Smoke that Thunders.’

Certainly, the volume in every sense is formidable. Five hundred and fifty million liters of the Upper Zambezi thunder down every minute, even higher at peak season. Indeed, coming here in May so soon after the rains, I feared thered be nothing but mist.

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Last modified on Monday, 01 March 2021

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