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Friday, 01 September 2017
Prague: The Bearable Lightness of Being in Czech Republic
Written by Eric D. Goodman
Prague, Czech Republic. The City of a Thousand Spires. For years I have wanted to explore this eastern European treasure, this alluring gem buried behind more westernized European destinations like Paris and London, Berlin and Barcelona. I’ve heard others yearn out loud for a visit to Prague and have listened to others praise it as one of their favorite stomping grounds. I’ve watched the Czech films, read Czech literature, studied Czech guide books and history. But it’s never quite the same until you’ve been there and sensed it yourself. For nearly a decade now I’ve been looking for the right time to make the pilgrimage to Prague. The time is now. Watching Time The time has come, quite literally, in fact. We are staring at a clock, watching it’s shimmering face in the late afternoon sun, waiting for the minute hand to make one more movement and for the show…
In my pursuit of unexplored destinations, I chanced upon the Tatra Mountains in Slovakia. The Tatra Mountains form a natural border between Slovakia and Poland. They are the highest mountain range in the Carpathians and second in Europe, only outdone by the Alps.Though fairly unheard of, these majestic mountains have a dramatic black rugged topography to excite any hiker or photographer. I started my journey from Krakow, Poland with a pleasant 2.5 hour drive cutting across the border into Slovakia. The place I chose to stay was Štrbské Pleso; its large glacial lake is a favorite ski, tourist, and health resort. Because its a stop on the Tatra trolley and rack railway, its a starting point for a host of popular hikes including to Kriváň and Rysy. As soon as I had entered the Tatra region, I starting passing through many small mountain villages. I decided to make a quick…
The fantastic Li River karst scenery of south China, a major subject of Chinese landscape painting, draws millions of visitors each year. They may come for the scenery but history buffs like me also discover plenty to intrigue them as Guilin's position as an historic highway between the central plains and the south has left a tangible Guilin is also a paradise for outdoor activities enthusiasts, with the Yulong River valley near Yangshuo a sublime spot for cycling, hiking and boating. Here are some of our Guilin highlights: 1. Boat the Li River The Li River is iconic Guilin, synonymous with the almost surreal karst scenery it has both sculpted and fed for eons. The outer-skin of the limestone peaks has been washed away through millennia of water erosion leaving a fairytale landscape. The combined length of the Li and Gui Rivers is 437km but the most acclaimed scenery is…
Wednesday, 01 March 2017
Experience Southwest USA’s Five Wonders of the World in Ten Days
Written by Maureen C. Bruschi
You don’t have to be a hiking enthusiast or a professional photographer to enjoy Sedona, Arizona’s red rocks, the Grand Canyon’s rich hues, Bryce Canyon’s hoodoos, Zion Canyon’s erosion-sculptured sandstone or Hoover Dam’s curved wall of concrete. Simply slip into your favorite walking shoes, grab a bottle of water and you’re ready to move from one mesmerizing view to the next. After my husband and I landed in Las Vegas to begin our 10 day southwest road trip, we rented a car and headed south for the Hoover Dam. Concrete Rules at the Hoover Dam – Day 1 To say that large amounts of concrete were poured during the construction of the Hoover Dam is an understatement. According to the US Bureau of Reclamation, which has constructed more than 600 dams and reservoirs including the Hoover Dam, there is enough concrete in the Hoover Dam (4 ½ million cubic yards)…
By age ten, my paleontology phase mothballed by fears that all the Jurassic skeletons would be exhumed with no bones left for the adult me, zoology became the new discipline and lions were my thing. As I scoured the nature and science books studying lifespan and habitat and how the great felines did better in zoos – an acceptable line to take back then – it was a given that King Lion lorded over an African realm. But there was always that curious addendum: There are a few hundred surviving Asian lions, in the Gir Forest of India. This seemed bizarre to me. I came to regard these freak lions as a lesser, more milquetoast creature, like those stunted Indian elephants whose shell-like ears were no match for the great fans of their African cousins. There was also that strange habitat. What self-respecting lion, apart from Bert Lahr, lived in…
Monday, 31 October 2016
Looking, Listening, and Learning: Cycling the Baltic States
Written by Dale Fehringer
Egle, our tour leader, met us in the hotel lobby the night before our tour began. She memorized our names and outlined our agenda, emphasizing that we would be on a tight schedule. We will cover three countries in seven days, she told us, and she wanted to show us the sights and teach us about this part of the world. Then she encouraged us to attend a music festival in the main square and she went home to prepare for the tour. We were in Vilnius, Lithuania, to begin a cycling tour of the Baltic states (Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia). The tour had been organized by Explore (www.exploreworldwide.com), a U.K. travel company, which arranged the tour leader, bus, driver, and bicycles. There were 11 of us -- eight Brits and three Americans – representing a variety of ages and backgrounds. It was a cordial group, easy to fit in…
The more remote islands of Indonesia had always been on my travel bucket list but eluded me for many years because there were no cruise ships plying the vast expanse of these islands. In recent years there was a legitimate concern of piracy on the waters surrounding certain areas of Indonesia, and these personal safety concerns likely explains the scarcity of cruise ships in the region. Then, one day before we were about to book a privately guided trip to Mongolia, I stumbled upon a National Geographic/Lindblad expedition cruise titled “Indonesia Odyssey: Bali to the Great Barrier Reef”. While I expect my travel to esoteric destinations to continue for many years to come, I told my wife that if we had only one trip to choose from for the remainder of our lives, this was it. After reading the day to day itinerary, we immediately signed on for the trip—and…
Friday, 08 July 2016
Cycling in a Land that Time Forgot: Cuba
Written by Dale Fehringer and Patty McCrary
As our airplane approached the Havana Airport a flight attendant announced that he wished to be the first to welcome us to Cuba. The passengers burst into cheering and applause, which was repeated when the wheels touched down a few minutes later. We weren’t used to such enthusiasm, and we asked the flight attendants about it. It happens all the time, they told us, Cubans are very proud of their country. That became clear as we explored Cuba – a complex country filled with gracious people. That, and many other things, hasn’t changed much for more than a half century. We were in Cuba to research, photograph, and describe the reception and conditions Americans receive. Ours was not a particularly easy trip, but it left us with mostly favorable impressions and fond memories. We met wonderful people, enjoyed the 1950’s cars and ever-present salsa music, and appreciated the genuineness of…
When we told friends and family of our plans to visit Paris, 2 ½ months after November's terrorist attacks, we received some strange looks and concerned questions – like “Why go now?” and “Is it safe?” So I thought I'd remind people of the amazing allures of the City of Light and reflect on the things I saw. When we arrived, local and military police were everywhere! The first time I went to Paris was a few days after the US bombing of Libya in 1986 and now – with the travel warnings and the ubiquitous presence of soldiers – it was 1986 all over again. But now there were security checks going into just about every building as well: churches, museums, concert halls. Thankfully not restaurants or shops, but those were on alert in a different way. One night in the Bastille we were sitting in a small restaurant…
Tuesday, 01 March 2016
A Certain Time of Day: Cycling and Sailing in Greece
Written by Dale Fehringer
There is a certain time of day, in Greece, between the afternoon and darkness, when the sun is beginning to set and the light is soft and gentle, that you begin to reflect on and appreciate the day. We are cycling on Poros, in the Peloponnes Islands south of Athens, enjoying mild temperatures, clouds, a few drops of rain, and the scent of a pine forest. Near the end of our ride we stop near some ruins, sip fruit drinks, and listen to stories about this island; myths about people who lived here more than a thousand years ago. Back on our bicycles, we coast downhill as the sun is beginning to set. A slight haze rises from the water and the light begins to soften. Clouds break the remaining sunlight into bands of yellow and gray, and shadows make images on the water. Twilight turns the white houses of…
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Friday, 01 January 2016
Trekking in the Lantang Valley in Nepal, Before the 2015 Earthquake
Written by Jean-Marc Theodorowicz
For thousands of years the Himalayas have held a profound significance for the people of South Asia. Their literature, religions and mythologies reflect the overall lure of the world’s largest mountain range. It stretches 1500 miles from east to west, and passes through five nations: Pakistan, India, Nepal, Bhutan and Tibet (Tibet has been under Chinese sovereignty, since the Chinese invaded the country in 1950). The world Himalaya is Sanskrit for “abode of snow’, quite fitting for an expanse of land that houses more non-polar ice masses than anywhere else on the planet. Referred to as the roof of the world, the Himalayas have long been shrouded with lore, legends and myths - well before Sir Edmund Hillary first climbed Mount Everest in 1953. It was early 2013 and my cousin Fabienne, who lives in France, invited me to join her on a trekking trip in Nepal at the beginning…
East of India and south of China, lies Indochina. This is the exotic tropics of Frangipani lined streets where people cool themselves with pankhas in the jasmine infused air and where the colors of life are reflected in the mouth-watering food. Romantic images indeed. I have had the pleasure of visiting Thailand and Laos and have walked into Burma or Myanmar as it is now known, with the Indian Army from north-east India. When the allure of the Orient beckoned again, it was time to travel to Cambodia and Vietnam. In the not too distant past, Cambodia and Vietnam found themselves to be the arena where proxy wars fueled by the insecurities of the 20th century and the quest for new ideologies was played out. Apocalypse Now, Platoon and the horrifying Killing Fields are some of the references from popular culture relating to Cambodia and Vietnam that may be familiar…
“You want to see long necks?” I stared at Makai blankly. “What?” “Long necks. You want to see? “Yeah. Okay. I guess.” Kupa revved the motor and steered our long boat into one of the other canals. So far we’d seen the Floating Gardens, the Phaung Daw Oo Paya and the Pa Don Mar Silk, Lotus and Cotton Weaving shop. I’d passed on the cigar rolling demonstration. ‘Long necks’ meant nothing to me. As of yesterday, Inle Lake meant nothing to me. It was an add-on. I’d been given an extra week in Myanmar and tacked a lake visit to the intinerary. I was coming to Inle Lake fresh but arrived stale. Lakes were fine for cottage idylls and languid summer days but unless they sourced the Nile, were packed dense with salt, or sat high in the Andes with cheeky names, they evoked a feeling of ‘meh’. They’re not…
Tuesday, 30 June 2015
Zihuatanejo, Mexico: Lose the Map and Get Gloriously Lost
Written by Noreen Kompanik
I say this figuratively. But, sometimes you need to put down the map or guidebook and embrace a spirit of adventure to truly capture the essence of your destination. It happened to us. Most people I talk to have never heard of Zihuatanejo. At least, they think they haven’t. But, Zihuatanejo is the place Red finally meets up with Andy working on his boat on a quiet beach in the final scene of the movie “The Shawshank Redemption”. Ah Ha! Now you remember. My husband and I traveled to this somewhat remote destination and realized that this was truly a “relax like you mean it” getaway. Zihuatanejo or Zihua (zee wah) as the locals call it is located in the Mexican Riviera between Puerto Vallarta and Acapulco. Sheltered by a stunningly picturesque bay and ringed by lush, green mountains, Zihau has successfully managed to remain a quaint, authentic fishing village.…
In January we traveled to Bend, Oregon following the promise of good beer and even better hiking. For quite a long time we have been hearing about all the excellent breweries and hiking opportunities in the Bend area, but what we didn’t count on was the small town feel and friendly culture of the region. Over 81,000 people call Bend home but it still has a small town feel with minimal traffic and a cozy vibe. In preparation we had a list of the hikes we wanted to accomplish along with the breweries we hoped to visit throughout the weekend. Our first stop in the Bend area was at the Newberry National Volcanic Monument where we walked the interpretive trail of the Lava Cast Forest through lava rocks and twisted pines. The trail is ten miles south of Bend near the Sunriver Resort. There is a wood plank trail that…
Swooping down over Narita Airport, I conjure the Vangelis score from the opening of Blade Runner (1982), daydreaming of my first Suntory on the rocks in a sprawling futuristic enclave. Jet lag and my beyond-haggared physiognomy don't come into it as the adrenaline rush of a new adventure takes over. I proceed to the city via the Limited Airport Express and then the Asakusa subway line to the homely Anne Hostel in Asakusabashi in Tokyo's Taito ward, also home to the Asakusa neighborhood. Here lies the breathtaking Sensoji Temple, founded in 645, and just adjacent the Asakusa Shrine, atavistic structures I'd only ever seen in films. Nakamise-dori, the street approaching the temple from Thunder Gate, is lined with shops and heaving with tourists, and as trivial as it sounds, I'm as equally shocked by just how very clean my surroundings are. It's a rarity to walk around a neighborhood back…
Maybe I should have gone shopping? I was two months shy of my 65th birthday, cold, exhausted, and panting in the thin air at 17,000 feet on Ecuador’s Mt. Cotopaxi. And, as far as I could see, I was now alone. So, I sat down in the lee of a large outcropping of rock and ice. My thoughts turned to a humorous incident five years earlier: After reaching the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro and safely back in a small hotel in Moshi, Tanzania, I called my wife, bursting with pride that I had “reached the top”. She was overwhelmed with joy – that I had reached the bottom! Now, while I was not in any specific danger, my wife’s perspective took on new meaning. In my 20’s I had dabbled with rock and ice climbing during the years I lived near New Hampshire’s White Mountains. It was exhilarating and mock-heroic,…
Hi, my name is Michelle and I am a recovering food snob. I discovered this while walking 800 km across Spain, on the Camino de Santiago. I live in Vancouver, BC and I participate in the Dietary Restricting Movement of the 21st century. Many of the the following words or phrases have passed through my mind or left my mouth at some point in the last few years: •I don't understand how people can eat (enter food item here)! •I don't drink pop. •Excuse me, do you have almond milk? •Peanuts are terrible for you, you should eat almonds instead. •Is that organic? •Does it have wheat in it? •Is there sugar in that? •Gross. You couldn't pay me to put that in my body. •I judge people standing in line at McDonalds. •I don't eat (enter food here) or (food) or (food)... •Plus many more... It has come to…
We were cycling through a village in rural Rajasthan, India, waving and saying “Hello” to the children who lined the road to greet us when a middle-aged man came out of his house and asked us to stop for a talk. We braked and stepped off our bikes to see what he wanted. His brown skin and black hair were offset by a white dress shirt and tan slacks, and he had badly-bucked teeth and a huge smile on his face. He asked where we were from, and when we said the U.S. he asked which state. Yes, he had heard of California, but he had not been there. A small crowd started to gather, including a woman half his age who we guessed was his daughter and several teenage boys who stood listening to our conversation. We complimented him on his English. “I learned English from my father, who…
On the slopes of Haleakala, looming above sandy beaches, trendy restaurants and resorts is Upcountry. With each visit, this part of Maui draws me in further. Ocean snorkeling, sandcastles and stone massage in a hale on the beach wholly satisfy. Yet, Upcountry soothes the soul with its nature-in-the raw, laid back, porch-graced homes seemingly kissing the sky. Lush jacarandas dot curvy hillsides. The island country charm is pleasing. Over time, the region has attracted spirited characters and dreamers. This gem now boasts unique, mindful, sustainable growth and development worthy of exploration. Our first “Road to Hana” adventure about a decade ago included a stop at Grandma’s Coffee House in Keokea. Tasting Paradise, a recipe book chock-full of greats from restaurants on five Hawaiian Islands, brought this fixture to our attention. Gratefully, we munched breakfast and left with sandwiches for a picnic along the route. Those Maui onions fragranced the ride…
John M. Edwards sings the praises of Vienna’s unique “Grand Café” Kaffeeklatches, perfect for any time of year ------------------------------------------------------------- “The [Café] Central is a place for people who have to kill time, so as not to be killed by it. . . .” --Alfred Polgar ------------------------------------------------------------- “I AM SIGMUND SPIELBERG!!!” The obviously unemployable flaneur with umlaut eyes landed at my marble-topped table without a proper invite, brusquely pushing aside a Thonet wooden chair. Brandishing a copy of Der Spiegel on a wooden rolling pin in his left hand, and reeking from an unfortunate cologne resembling turning fruit or female arousal or even Cutter ™, Sigmund sighed, coughing up and swallowing a leech-like phlegm ball. “Wow!” I breathed in snarky disbelief. “Any relation to the American filmmaker Steven Spielberg?!” “Why yes!” “Siggy” fogged up his Rayban aviator sunglasses and polished the lenses on a starched white napkin (mine), smiling like a…
The World is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page. -- Saint Augustine We kept hearing a trumpet blow in the distance – a mournful tune that abruptly ended. A street entertainer, we assumed. But that night at dinner we heard the Legend of the Trumpeter. In the 13th century, according to the legend, descendents of Genghis Khan known as the Tartars invaded Poland, burning towns and farms, plundering and killing. The people of Krakow were terrified they would be next, and they established watchmen around the clock in the church tower. One night, when most of the townspeople were in church, the watchman on duty noticed Tartars approaching the city. He blew a warning on his trumpet. The Tartars shot arrows at the tower, but the watchman continued to sound the trumpet until an arrow struck him in the throat. The townspeople responded to…
Monday, 30 December 2013
Trekking Annapurna: New 'highway' or old by-ways?
Written by Heather Knight
The New Annapurna Trekking Trails offer the essential antidote to the growing encroachment of jeeps, dust and noise on the legendary circuit. The man with few teeth looks at my husband for some time. Then slowly, deliberately, draws an index finger across his own throat. “Tomorrow” he threatens. A dramatic pause before he erupts into laughter and points at the goat between them. The goat is chewing my husband's sleeve, leaving a white silken reminder. We pass under soaring bamboo frames, where young boys triumphantly hang flower garlands, offering namastes without compromising their balance. Between the heightening jungle-clad valley walls, villages offer up cow bell jingles and everywhere the applause of water from streams, rivers and falls. We had arrived at the foothills of Nepal's Annapurna mountain range almost a decade late, previously waylaid by coups and closed airports in our youth. Taking a new opportunity, now without political crisis,…
Switzerland is full of villages, remote or close to cities and many of them are known to me. For a small nation, the variety is remarkable as is an infrastructure that enables people to get to places without fuss. Depending on what I am looking for in a holiday determines what sort of Swiss experience I create. I have been twenty five times over many years. This past May, feeling nearly overwhelmed by a series of events in my family that centered around the end of my mother’s long life, I knew benefit would come about from placement in a village as faraway as possible, but still reachable by the Swiss transportation system. People have been coming to Switzerland for centuries seeking peace of mind, a chance to either forget their troubles or see them anew in the context of what are for many the world’s most beautiful mountains. At…
I never thought I would end up spending two weeks in Johannesburg South Africa. I usually travel in Asia. Japan, Korea or Hong Kong are more my cup of tea and are relatively save destinations if you are a girl traveling on your own. All I knew about South Africa is that it’s dangerous, racist and sexist so naturally not a destination ranking high, if at all, on my list of ‘must visit’ destinations. And then, whilst traveling in Thailand, I meet a guy from Jo’burg. JJ, for two weeks, he’s raving about how great the city is, how much there is to see and learn, about the beautiful country side and the lekker food and so on. Only later I find out he studied tourism. I basically fell for the hard sell. Still, I wasn’t sure about safety but apparently “it is much saver than people might think”, although,…
I was really struggling with the luggage. The floral suitcase was from the seventies and only had a little strap that I had to pull in a direct line with the bag or it would tip over. Not to mention, there was a thick gray slush that was lining the sidewalk near the terminal, which didn't help with the stability. My heart was beating so fast yet my body was performing all the motions fluidly. Riley and I walked through the sliding glass doors into Dayton International Airport to see my mom, best friend, aunt, and step-mom waiting for us- for me. It was around four in the morning. After receiving a beautiful leather journal from my mom, it was time for good-byes. Something I have become all too familiar with- never comfortable, but familiar. Hugs and kisses were given as well as please-don't-get-yourself-killed looks. Not unlike a robot, I…
Nestled deep in the Caucasus a mere whisper from Georgia's second-largest city, Kutaisi, black-robed monks flit amongst shadows framed by stone mosaics. Nary a mobile phone in sight, their presence stirs the imagination, conjuring images of medieval derring-do featuring fire-breathing dragons, duels to the death and damsels in distress. Sure, this alpine region is also a hair’s-breadth away from where Russian and Georgian troops fought to bloody ends in 2008, but here at Gelati Monastery life has a certain unchanging quality. And why shouldn’t it? First established in 1106, this UNESCO World Heritage Site has seen armies as diverse as the Persians and Mongols, only to be defeated by the topography of a country roughly the same size as West Virginia. Gelati is a working monastery, meaning monks live there full-time. Gelati Monastery was first established in 1106. Today it is a UNESCO World heritage Site. Though Gelati may be…
My mind has plenty of time to wander as I enter the Wieliczka salt mines in Poland. With 380 winding, wooden steps leading down to the first level 64 meters underground, it’s a great place to stop and let your senses absorb everything around you. The smell becomes musty and pungent. The warm summer air above-ground is replaced by a constant 14C. Dim light bulbs take over for the bright sunlight. The railings and walls around me are damp and cool. But there was only one thought going through my mind as I shuffled with the other ten visitors on the afternoon English-speaking tour—what have I gotten myself into? This is because I am at the head of the line carrying young daughter, Meg, who has a bad case of new-sneaker blisters. My aerobic undertaking looks easier in print than it is in practice. Carrying 46 pounds of pierogi-stuffed child…
The moment my husband and I arrive in El Calafate, an oasis town in Southern Patagonia’s desert, we know that our decision to travel to Argentina’s outback wilderness was right. It is exotic and exciting. Birds dig their webbed feet into the sand to keep from being blown away. Clouds swirl past the snow-capped Andean peaks. We came to explore remote hiking trails, gawk at wind-hewn icebergs, and walk on Perito Moreno – one of the southern hemisphere’s few advancing glaciers. “That’s Cristina’s place,” announces our driver. He points to sprawling bungalows and an enormous villa. They are surprisingly lavish in this frontier town of slapdash clapboard buildings with corrugated metal roofs. “Who’s she?” I ask. “The President. She vacations here. Owns the hotel.” Los Sauces belongs to Argentina’s first elected female leader, the glamorous and tough Cristina Fernández de Kirchner. I hadn’t realized that our accommodations and her private…
It was late at night when Nataliya and I arrived in Madrid. We retrieved our bags and headed for the airport bus. In some ways, the darkness of the late hour made our entrance to the capitol of Spain even more impressive. The sky was dark, but everything else was lit up. As we drove toward the Puerta de Alcala, it looked as though the bus was going to drive right through the massive gateway. But the street curved into a roundabout and we circled the plaza. The former gateway into the city is formed of granite, and it looks spectacular when lit up at night. But if the gateway was impressive, our bus’s destination would leave us even more impressed. We got off the bus at Plaza de Cibeles. In the center of the square is the iconic fountain crowned…
The city of Barcelona can be divided into three sections: Montjuic, Old Town, and Eixample. Having checked into our bed and breakfast a block from Sagrada Familia, Nataliya and I have about four days ahead of us to explore all the great city has to offer. We’ve read ahead and have a good idea of what we expect to enjoy the most, but we also want to fit in as much as we can while still allowing time for pleasant restaurant eating and plaza lounging. Confident that we’ve timed things right, we decide to start with Montjuic—certainly a must see—and to work our way up to the unique sights we expect will most excite us.From Palace to Fortress We love our art museums, and the Museu National d’Art de Catalunya (or National Art Museum of Catalonia) is a collection well worth…
A crisp early morning in the middle of the European summer and I am sitting on an east-bound train weaving along the jagged coast of the Italian Riviera. I sit transfixed as I watch the yellow sun peak over the horizon, lighting up the infinite stretch of water in front of me. As the speeding train darts through dusky tunnels hollowed out from the rugged mountainside, I press my cheek to the cool window and attempt to see around the curvature of the carriages - because judging by the few sun-kissed locals who are already gathered at the exit doors, ready to disembark - my destination must be just around the bend. And then I see it. Set against the dark coastline, a brilliant flash of yellow, pink and white architecture draws my attention. The steep cliffs that I have sought for many years are finally here.Gloriously threaded along 18km…
If you had nine weeks to spend in Southeast Asia where would you go? When faced with the question these are the places we chose and a few photos from each.Hong KongBangkok, ThailandAngkor Wat, Siem Riep, CambodiaTonle Sap LakePhnom Phen, CambodiaPhu Quoc, VietnamSaigon (HCMC), VietnamHoi An, VietnamHue, VietnamHalong Bay, VietnamHanoi, VietnamLuang Prabang, LaosTwo day boat trip up Mekong River, LaosChiang Rai Area, ThailandChiang Mai, ThailandKhao Lak, Thailand (Volunteering with VTT)Ao Nang, ThailandKo Lanta, ThailandKo Phi Phi, ThailandPenang, MalaysiaNusa Lembongan, IndonesiaNear Sanur, Bali, IndonesiaUbud, Bali, IndonesiaChanggu, Bali, IndonesiaSingapore(c)Christina Kay Bolton
Friday, 03 February 2012
Nothing Short of Exquisite: Lebanon at its Worst and Finest
Written by Vana Kouyoumji
It is very difficult to recall a single version of Lebanon considering the unpredictable experiences I have had visiting the country over the years. Not having any water to wash with and blindly walking up stairs when electricity would go out and generators would exhaust its supply may be expected in some parts of the world. Escaping blasts by demonstrators and mistaking the roars of bombs as fireworks, not so common. My heart goes out to those who often face these conditions but I realize living life to the fullest is taken seriously by the Lebanese. This skill is perfected through a combination of celebrating the present and forgiving the past. Their warm spirits and swelling pride, regardless of the unyielding political strife, rubs off on you. People somehow manage to be the most hospitable, grounded, and vivacious they are capable of being and you realize, you envy them a…
If only I believed people really meant it when they asked, “How was your vacation?” I’d tell them about my week with no running water and the ten-flight walk to a bathroom, where pull-cord showers only ran cold. I’d show them bites on my ankles from sand fleas and mention the long flight delay. But then I’d urge them to book the same trip – before it’s too late. Pat, the adventuresome love of my life, likes to “travel.” I prefer “vacationing,” by which I mean beach-to-fridge on the Outer Banks. Maho Bay Camps, in St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands, seemed like a good compromise: restful Caribbean beaches for me, water adventure for her, and the idea of “eco-friendly” yet comfy camping, intrigued us both. To be honest, I’m not a good traveler no matter where I’m going. I get antsy on long drives. If I’m flying, I hate…
Denmark may be the most ideal cycling destination in the world. In addition to a strong cycling culture in this small Scandinavian nation, Denmark has developed an extensive network of cycling paths, which make touring by bicycle safe and easy. The locals are welcoming, friendly, and fluent in English; and, to make cycling interesting, Denmark has a long and varied history that is easily accessed by bicycle. City of BikesWe arrived in Copenhagen a couple of days before our cycling tour and explored the city on foot, including Tivoli Gardens, the royal palace, and the history of this Scandinavian capital, which is presented in several excellent museums. It quickly became apparent why Copenhagen is known as the City of Bikes, because cyclists fill the streets at all times. They cycle to work, take their children to school on their bikes, and generally leave their cars at home. It was June,…
When the volcano Eyjafjallajökull erupted in April 2010 in Southeast Iceland, for days I imagined, from my home in the scorching summer plains of Texas, walking directly toward the volcano and holding my hand out as close to a lava waterfall as possible. Literally, I pictured myself on a hike with boots laced up to my knees and a walking stick by my side, guiding me like a holy grail towards the flows. Scorching wet matter from the earth would roll down the sensual side of mountains like fingers traipsing down the inner curve of a woman’s back. Precipitation of reds and crimsons and charcoaled oranges would sit in the sky, coating the water and blanketing the land and electricity would light the clouded firmament above the crater. This was the vision I had of the volcanic disturbance in Iceland and one that my wanderlusting ego simply had to witness.Serendipitously,…
I step off the overnight train in Chiang Mai with my small backpack and a tattered guidebook not knowing what to expect. My guidebook isn’t tattered because I’ve been meticulously pouring over it to gain some insight into northern Thailand. It’s in its current depreciated condition because I shoved it, unread, into my overcrowded bag as I was packing for the train. The only thing that I know about Chiang Mai is that some friends in Bangkok told me it was one of the best places to travel to in Thailand, and after spending a month in Bangkok, this was all the encouragement that I needed to book a train ticket.Not knowing the geography, I ask for a map at the tourist information booth and instead am given a ride to the guesthouse where I’ll be staying for the next week. On the way to the guesthouse the driver of…
I wanted to visit the Indian state of Kerala, also referred to as 'God's Own Country', for a fourth time...but, on this tour, experience areas of the wildly diverse region that nudges the mountains of the Western Ghats, a place I'd not before seen.PreparationOne thing I’ve learned from previous trips is that preparation is a vital ingredient when planning travel to tropical regions if one is to squeeze every last drop of pleasure from the country selected. Kerala doesn't experience extreme variations of weather, except in the monsoon season (June-Sept) when it rains constantly, but the prices charged by hotels and resorts do reflect long-established beliefs that there are indeed three clearly defined periods, with Nov-Jan bring most popular and pricey. Armed with this published data, I decided to 'overlap' seasonal periods to seek lower prices and thus maximize both comfort and flexibility while minimizing my daily outlay. The strategy…
Gruesome reports of decapitated bodies, kidnapped Americans, and cartel shootouts - these days it’s hard to read anything about Mexico that doesn’t relate to drug-related violence. Even popular tourist destinations like Acapulco and Cancun have made news headlines. And while violence is an issue travelers should take into consideration, especially in border cities like Ciudad Juarez and Monterrey, it has become an outright U.S. media obsession. Despite the media’s trend, there are plenty of areas of this beautiful country to visit that have not been affected by the violence. My central Mexico trip started in Mexico City, the Distrito Federal or D.F. as it is more commonly known. It was overcast as the plane landed, so I didn’t get a good look at the city until making it up to the Torre Mayor, the tallest building in D.F. I spent almost an hour on the observation deck, it just took…
I love traveling in South America, and the Galapagos had always been a ‘someday I’ll get there’ sort-of dream destination for me, an enchanted archipelago where unique species dive into azure waters on volcanic islands. When I saw a one-day sale for a flight from New York to the Galapagos roundtrip for $525 I bought it instantly (before they changed their minds). I would have ten glorious days and nights to fill with adventures. I researched all the various options: cruises, tours, or going it alone, and decided on the last one primarily for a more affordable and comfortable option than the typical budget choice of poor quality cruises on questionable boats. I planned to go wildlife-spotting on day trips to uninhabited islands and explore the inhabited ones on a quest for how much it’s possible to see while being based on land. * * * The Galapagos are 600…
You’ll be forgiven if you don’t know much about Algeria apart from its recent participation in the 2010 World Cup. Despite being the second largest African country, spanning from the Mediterranean into the Sahara, and the world’s fourth largest natural gas exporter, this country remains relatively unknown. Yet, its seeming obscurity is what makes it beguiling — a jewel to be discovered. Pointe El Ketanni Algeria turns its page on its violent history, and looks forward to a peaceful, prosperous and developed future. Algiers – Capital of Algeria – steeped in history Countless numbers of people have ruled Algiers, including the Phoenicians, Romans, Vandals, Berbers, Byzantines, Spanish, Barbary, Ottomans, and French. Today, Algeria turns its page on its violent history and looks forward to a peaceful, prosperous, and developed future. Much of the city center remains in its colonial form— whitewashed buildings with distinct blue windows and railings. Modernization clashes…
Venezuela may not have the historic draw of Peru or the adventurous treks of Patagonia, but the country lets itself down with its lack of touristic invitation. It has not had any form of tourist campaign in over 20 years, which is a shame because it holds some of the most “out of this world” places on the planet. I was lucky enough to hike up one.
The people of Northern Laos never hurry; the riverboat to the next town slowly fills up. When the boat finally takes off, you experience Asian life as if time stood still. It must have been this way in Thailand 50 years ago; children play in the river while women do their laundry and long tail boats fully packed with merchandise pass by. A trek over mountains through dense rainforest can lead you to tribal villages where people have lived in the same ways for centuries. Northern Laos is a paradise for the adventurous traveler who loves culture and nature.
Monday, 22 March 2010
Beaches, Ashrams, and Backwaters: Exploring Kerala (& Mumbai), India
Written by Christina Kay Bolton
When we arrived at Thiruvananthapuram’s (also known as Trivandrum) airport near the southern tip of India our driver, Arun, was magically waiting for us even though we’d given him the wrong arrival time and flight number. Arun works for SITA and was very personable, spoke English well, and was the source of great conversation throughout the trip. I told him we wanted to do a bit of sightseeing in town before heading out to Varkala beach, so we stopped to look at Sree Anantha Padmanabha Swamy Temple (non-Hindu’s cannot go inside) and then explored the city palace museum which had some beautiful ivory pieces including a basinet made entirely out of ivory, some nice paintings, and a large throne-like chair adorned with huge crystals from Slovakia.
Rajasthan and the ‘Golden Triangle’ are exotic and amazing; its forts, palaces, natural wonders, culture and cuisine entice you at the same time that its poverty and pollution repulse you. All its contrasts create a vivid impression and an elixir for living vibrantly.
Friday, 20 November 2009
Sikkim and Darjeeling: Eco-travel at its Best
Written by Christina Kay Bolton
Sikkim is the greenest state in India in more than one way. It is lush and vibrantly green due to its unique micro-climate, created by its location in the shadow of Mt. Kanchenjunga and between the Himalayas and the Bay of Bengal. Books have been written about the miniature biosphere created here, and the region’s multitude of different species. The cyclones of the Bay of Bengal reach up to the Himalayas and to Sikkim in particular; that, combined with the monsoon, means Sikkim receives more than its fair share of rain, but it is also ‘green’ in an eco-sense. For instance, plastic bags are banned so they don’t end up on roadsides and in rivers like in the rest of India. Shops use paper bags or newspaper to wrap things and shoppers can buy inexpensive re-usable bags in most places. In fact, Sikkim is definitely the cleanest state that I’ve…
Bhutan really is unique in the world – its culture is one of the most well preserved in the world. As a tourist, I felt I was almost stepping back in time. Some of this may be due to the fact that television wasn’t allowed into the Buddhist kingdom until 1999, so, unlike most places; western culture has yet to take over. Another factor is that traditional Bhutanese dress is required in both school and the workplace, so one always sees the women wearing their Kira’s and the men in Goa’s. Western style clothes are often worn by the youth on weekends, but the older folk tend to wear the Kira or Goa year-round.
Friday, 03 July 2009
A Whirlwind Tour of Tasmania: Australias Green State with a Dark Past
Written by Kristen Hamill
“Ok, wait… Why are we going to Tasmania?” Our flight from Adelaide to Hobart had barely levelled at cruising altitude when I turned to Taylor with the question. He looked across the aisle at Kate and Jonny, who were already slumped over their tray tables, sleeping off the night before. He laughed, “I have no idea.” We may not have been sure why we’d decided on Tasmania, but after six months of studying abroad down under, we started running out of places to explore.
The island of Sicily is a stunningly diverse destination, filled with an incredible mixture of different cultures. This is evident in many aspects of life there, particularly visible in the region’s food, architecture and art.
Monday, 23 March 2009
The Isle of Skye: a Microcosm of the Scottish Highlands
Written by Clint Cameron
“Aye lad, for sure hameldame ole Eilean a’Cheo” was the thickly accented and somewhat incomprehensible drawl of a reply uttered from a rather uncordial elderly local to what I assumed to be a fairly non-pugnacious question “So…, do you enjoy living all the way out here on Skye?”.
They thought we were slightly nuts. Six of us, all students at the University of Adelaide — three Americans (Jonny, Kate, and myself) one Brit (Carrie-Ann), one Canadian (Taylor), and one Aussie (Jakob) who had made the trip before — were making a five day round-trip from Adelaide, north through 1500 kilometers of empty desert, in the middle of the Australian summer, without air-conditioning. We were headed to Uluru, the giant red monolith also known as Ayers Rock, sacred to Aboriginal tribes and as much an Australian icon as the kangaroo.
Lies Ouwerkerk returns to her native city and searches for the 5 best canal hotels, restaurants, brown cafe's, specialty shops, local markets, museums, and bike rental shops in the downtown canal district.
There is something about volcanoes that fascinates me, and finds me craving to conquer their summits to be able to satisfy my curiosity and peer down their crater rims. Having climbed Mount Etna (3350m) in Sicily and Gunung Agung (3142m) in Bali, (Cotapaxi (5897m) in Ecuador was weeks away but the trip was cancelled at the last minute), the time had come for something African – Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania was the next conquest. At an altitude of 5895m, it is the tallest free-standing mountain in the world, and I promised myself that one day soon I would have my picture taken at the summit, Uhuru Peak.
Saturday, 05 July 2008
Enchanting Yemen: A Country Largely Untouched by Tourism
Written by Lies Ouwerkerk
"I taught myself as a kid," explains our trekking guide Abdullah, when we prudently inquire about his credentials in the face of a steep mountain ahead of us. "I tried this stone, and that rock, and every time I ventured a little bit farther. By now, I know that mountain inside out." Abdullah’s self-taught approach exemplifies Yemen’s response to its slowly growing tourist industry.
As the rain hammered against our window and freezing wisps of wintry air seeped through the tin-lined walls of our Puerto Natales hostel, we lay huddled under the thick down duvet quietly questioning our decision to spend three nights camping out in the Southern reaches of Chilean Patagonia. Of course, given that our bags had been packed and repacked, equipment hired and bus tickets bought, there really was no going back. Come 6am, we were scurrying around the dimly lit room looking for odd socks and anything else that might have fallen under the bed, before dashing outside to board the waiting bus.
Tuesday, 04 March 2008
Mountain Lodges of Peru: Machu Picchu Lodge to Lodge
Written by Christina Kay Bolton
Mountain Lodges of Peru’s Machu Picchu Lodge to Lodge trek is a high-end hiking experience unique in Peru that distinguishes itself from other companies in many ways. First and foremost are its gorgeous lodges with impressive architecture and stunning views. Until 2007, trekking in the Machu Picchu area involved camping out through freezing nights at high altitudes – most people hiking the Inca trail in the high season got so cold at night that by 2-3 am they’d be up and ready to start the next days hike. It makes an immeasurable difference to have a warm room, a hot shower, a comfortable bed and hygienically-prepared three course meals.
Wednesday, 27 February 2008
The Friendship Highway: Journey from Nepal to Tibet
Written by Carolyn Bonello
The Friendship Highway, a 920km stretch of road, links Kathmandu in Nepal to Lhasa in Tibet. The drive takes five days, stopping at some of the most authentic Tibetan villages and highest mountain passes in the world along the way. It has been described as ‘A journey to the roof of the world’ and ‘Without doubt one of the most spectacular highways in the world’. Reading those descriptions, I knew I had to go there. The trouble was getting across the border to Tibet.
Can 45,000 people journey vast distances to a lifeless desert and participate in an environmentally sustainable festival devoted to burning stuff? This year, Burning Man attempted to do just that: go green.
Wednesday, 24 October 2007
A Cross-Country Excursion through the Southern States
Written by Josh Mitchell
When my roommate told me that he was leaving Boston and moving to San Diego, I jumped at the chance to drive with him through the southern states – a part of the country that I have always longed to explore. There are not many times in your life when you are able to dedicate an entire month to traveling.
Borneo…maybe you’ve heard of it - but do you even know where it is? I’m sure that if I gave you a globe you’d all have trouble putting your finger on it. What if I told you that it is the world’s third largest island…and it contains three countries: Malaysia, Indonesia, and Brunei. At one time it was a wild place inhabited by headhunters, but it’s now a lush island in the Pacific near New Guinea and the Philippines. My curiosity with Borneo started about seven years ago when I was living in San Francisco. I was up late one night watching television. I came across the show “Eco-Challenge.” It was an adventure race that was shown on cable (before the craze of reality TV).
Looking for a safe place to explore with friendly and beautiful people, ancient castles, magnificent churches, cobblestone streets, quiet forests, thousands of lakes, huge sand dunes, and sparkling beaches lining the sea?
We trudge across the arid crater, the cinnamon-brown land around us barren except for the occasional boulder. If it weren’t for the infrequent drone of a plane overhead and the steady line of hikers wending their way ahead of and behind us, it might be possible to imagine that we’re on Mars. We’re not quite that far away, but coming from the cold and snowy Northeastern United States, it’s a place that feels equally exotic to my husband and me. We are in the South Crater, part of the renowned Tongariro Crossing at Tongariro National Park in New Zealand.
Sunday, 11 February 2007
Surviving the Mayan Ruins of Tikal
Written by Thomas Lera and Sandy Fitzgerald
We had our first glimpse of Tikal on the TV reality show, Survivor – Guatemala. Seeing it in real life is so much more amazing! It is Guatemala’s most famous cultural and nature preserve. Many call it one of the most spiritually powerful spots on earth. Its towering temples loom out of the thick jungle canopy and are reminiscent of stoic sentinels. Like all unexplained mysteries, it is fascinating and so irresistible
Monday, 04 December 2006
Spain: Reading Hemingway in the Land of Contradiction
Written by Evan Thoreau Heigert
The train out of Barcelona leaves at a quarter to noon. On the wall of the station, the iron clock reads 11:23. I turn to the line of dusty travelers in front of me. This is going to be close. I reach the window
Thursday, 19 October 2006
Holy Smoke: Visiting Costa Rica's Volcanoes
Written by Thomas Lera & Sandy Fitzgerald
As a traveler, I find myself schizophrenic. I’m unbearably optimistic in the planning stage, and utterly certain the night before departure I shouldn’t be going and of course have forgotten to plan and/or pack something utterly essential to the success of the trip. My wife is a meticulous and organized packer, who actually uses detailed checklists to ensure we have everything we might possibly need, without over-packing.
In July I went on a different type of tour of Newfoundland. If I had to put a name on it, I'd call it a “human-centered eco-tour.” ‘Earth to Human’ was our theme as we explored Gros Morne National Park and Newfoundland’s Northern Peninsula, seeing breathtaking landscapes as well as visiting all types of sustainable projects from newly created ecological reserves to the lodges that thrive on the influx of tourism...
Saturday, 01 July 2006
Land of Ice and Fire: Patagonia & Tierra del Fuego
Written by Christina Kay Bolton
We began our journey deep into Patagonia from Carretera Austral with a three-and-a-half-day journey past fjords and glaciers on Navimag. Navimag is a large barge that carries all the supplies down to the southern part of Chile. The trip used to be solely for transport, but occasionally backpackers would hitch a ride until it became so popular that the company built many cabins where there used to be cargo; now their business is largely a tourist enterprise. It is the cruise for those who can’t afford to cruise.
If you’re driving down Highway One north of San Francisco don’t look for the road sign to Bolinas, CA, because this quirky coastal hamlet is the only California municipality without a sign to lead you from the highway to the city limits. There used to be a sign that said “Bolinas, 2 miles”-- many of them in fact, but each of the signs put up in the last 20 years has enigmatically disappeared—the longest-standing sign lasting only 36 hours.
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