On a cool summer night, I step away from the sparkling coals of the bonfire and make my way carefully down to the dock. There are double the stars: half in the sky, half in the smooth surface of the water. I dream of stepping out onto the surface with my bare, sap-spotted feet and dancing across the Milky Way. I’m jealous of the Loons who float across the water, weaving in and out of the big dipper and circling the moon, with no noise but their haunting calls out into the cloudless sky.
“I’m going upstairs tonight,” I called to them over my shoulder as I shimmied up the L-shaped staircase and pushed on the metal door.
“Do you have a blanket at least?” Kaley called back to me. It was March, and though we were down in one of the most southern parts of Italy, the chill was still there, rising off the ocean and up over the sea of white stone that is Ostuni. We had decided to travel on our spring break, but because my friends were visiting from the University of New Hampshire, I thought it foolish to spend extra on a guided tour and airfare for a trip to Greece. Instead of following my roommates to the Pink Palace, we found our one white one - a summer house of a local Italian woman. She has a shop across from Café Pretoriana, the bar we frequented, and was friends with the owners, who told us about the opportunity. The little store was filled with ceramic art. Plates and dishes, cups and ladles, basins and tables, all painted beautiful blues and oranges, yellows and greens. She was a true artist, and she was proud of it. She grabbed my hand and pulled me around the store, showing me a painted rooster on a vase, and a plate with a pattern so intricate, it was almost impossible it was completed by hand. She spoke to my Italian friend, Shereen, about the property and Shereen relayed it back to us. It was inexpensive because of the off season; the artist thought us crazy to go down there so early.
“Siete pazza!” She said as she threw up her hands, almost knocking over one of her masterpieces. But she was grateful for the use of her little home away from home, and so were we.
After a five hour train ride, we pulled into the Ostuni station in Puglia, Italy. It was dark, but light shone down from the hilltop, the town bathed in a golden light that embellished the white walls of the structures.
Once we reached our door, it opened to a small, almost cave-like dwelling. The inside is much like the outside, with the white walls gracing the hallways and rooms. But the difference, was that this woman had brought her artistic style here as well. The ground floor bedroom was painted with tall reeds and sand dunes with furniture to match. Upstairs, painted vines scaled the walls and bricks were revealed beneath the white for a truly decorative touch. She painted curtains on the walls and rocks upon the floor. And the silhouette of the buildings right outside her home were decorating the inside above the bed upstairs. We had a painted Ostuni skyline to take hold of our dreams.
But it was when we discovered the rooftop that I knew a piece of my heart would remain within this city. As we climbed the last few, almost hidden, steps and pushed open the metal door, it screeched on rusty hinges and revealed a panoramic view out to the ocean. There was more of the woman’s artwork even here – a painted sun right below where the sun sets on the horizon. We ate and drank there. We were suddenly disinterested in the house, and spent hours reading in the warmth of the March sunshine, and gazing out from our perch atop the city. But the most precious find was mine. As the others walked down into the city to buy bread from the local baker, and the ancient olive oil from the farms of the ancient olive trees that line the city, I explored, and found a closet full of summer accessories. And behind the plastic lounge chairs and the drying racks, a hammock unraveled into my arms. Embellished with shells on the fringe, it was the perfect piece to my furniture puzzle on the small little roof. I strung it up and poured myself a glass of wine. La vita e bella. Life is, and was, good.
That night I ventured up the stairs again as my friends settled into their beds. I brought along my blanket and as I pushed that squeaky door, the sky unfolded through the crack into a spread of stars like I have never seen. I listened as abandoned wind chimes rang out among the other rooftops stacked below mine. I imagined all of these houses full in the summer months – with wine glasses clinking upon some and laughter dancing up from other rooftops. I settled into the hammock and the southern Italian wind rocked me back and forth as I gazed up into the inky black sky; not a sound but those bells and the wind.
Sometimes, the most popular places to visit are not the best. Finding that diamond in the rough is simple when traveling; you just need to have the courage to take chances to find it. As I stepped into Ostuni, I had barely researched, but it ended up being one of my most memorable experiences. Though the town was under populated, though it was chilly, I found the solitude inviting and the landscape gorgeous. Dare to take the chances that may lead to mental serenity or adventure. Your most memorable travel experience may be hiding in a diamond in the rough.
For some reason, the owner thought it’d be a good idea to paint it Kelly green, and to make it worse they painted a leprechaun on the side. Typical. Tourist. But it was cheap, and it was easy, and it was my savior from planning, and procrastinating, and producing nothing but worry. My backpack was tossed in, with the bags of the Canadians and the Chinese and the Australians and the Swedish, and I sat in my own seat, curled up behind my coat and I looked out the window to the green, the leaves, the sheep, the ocean, listening to the Irish brogue of our driver as he lulled me to sleep.
And that bus, that horrid green, that blends-but-clashes-with-the-landscape green, that contained a small collaboration of nations, rolled over the hills of Ireland and down to the coast and back up again. Over and over. Like the surprisingly blue waves off the shoreline. And I would sit, and lean my head against the window, swaying back and forth with the rocky road, sitting in my adopted, moving home, feeling that this was the safest place in the world, the safest, strangest place I’ve ever been. This bus, where I knew no one. Where I was no one. No one but the lone American girl that had studied in Italy and was from Boston. And the freedom of it – the freedom of being able to be anyone I wanted. To do anything I ever wanted to do, say what I wanted to say. I could. I had no restrictions, no baggage, no history. No one had any expectations. They knew me as I acted that week and nothing more, nothing less.
So it was ok, when some days I was loud and happy, and laughing, and talking, and telling stories about my life, my home, about Italy, about people that I loved, my pets, about what I missed from home, my school, about everything that I have ever known, releasing my mysteriousness, letting them know me, letting them understand. But it was also ok to sit in my own seat, legs pulled up tight to my chest. Sit. Think. Listen. Learn. Quiet.
And I’d feel so happy, so content, so needlessly comfortable, watching the landscapes of Ireland pass lazily outside my window. And my heart would soar and tell me it wanted to live here forever. In between the rocky coast and the rocky countryside. Weaving through the fishing harbors and the peat bogs and the myths and the fairy rings. And when I stepped off that bus and walked onto the plane that last day, the bland, white plane, I sat in my seat and brought my knees to my chest and rested my head against the window. But something, was missing.
I swirled the whipped cream into my hot chocolate, making patterns as the spoon twisted in the cup, hitting the sides, plinking with each moment of contact.
“I have no idea,” I sighed, and dropped the spoon to the side of the cup with a clatter. Tuya was sitting across from me, the light of her computer reflecting in her glasses. She squinted at the screen. “I don’t really care. I just want to go.”
We were sitting in Café Pretoriana in Ascoli. Besides the school, it was our only internet access point. The password to the WiFi was Led Zepplin. The hot chocolate was as thick as pudding. They played Italian rap music. The couple that ran it became my best friends. It was a comfort place.
“What about here?” Tuya spun her laptop towards me and pointed to the digital map. A small speck in the center of the Mediterranean appeared under her finger.
“What is that?” I asked.
“It’s called Malta. Must be warm, right?”
“Better be. I’m pale and need tanlines.”
“Is it a country?”
“No idea.”
Before we had looked at that map, Malta was a dog. I had never heard of the country, or its people. But my travels were an educated adventure that opened my eyes to another small, but beautiful portion of the world.
As we walked down the street to Granny’s Inn Hostel, I could not believe the weather. Bluebird skies and eighty degrees in April. Purple, blue and pink flowers were blooming through the wrought iron fences, and a breeze wafted the scent of the ocean air up through the maze of pale colored houses with bright colored trim. As we were buzzed in, I exclaimed at how gorgeous this place was. She gave me a puzzled look.
“Welcome to Malta.” She said as she shrugged. This weather was the norm.
In the next few days, we toured the city, craving the history, the beaches with names like Golden Bay and Paradise Bay. We roamed the craft areas and went dancing in the clubs. Malta was a haven I had never even known existed. And it started with a pinpoint on a map, a little spontaneity, and a chance.
When asked, many people will say they want to travel to big cities, the famous. Rome, Paris, New York, London, Dublin. But when you search beyond those limits, worlds can be opened up. Before purchasing that next flight, spin a globe, stop it with your finger, and reveal worlds you never even knew existed.